Undoubtedly, the alpine skiing opportunities within 30 minutes of Salt Lake rank evenly with the best winter resorts in the world. And I, like hundreds of thousands of Wasatch Front residents, try to soak up as much resort skiing as I can during Utah’s short but sweet ski season. That said, for one winter weekend, I hang up my alpine skis, load my snowshoes and cross-country skis into the car and beat it to Bryce Canyon National Park. There, among red rock spires, campy small towns, scenic trails and glorious cross-country ski tracks, I treat myself to a much-needed, nature-infused recharge.
Bryce Canyon National Park Rangers lead guided snowshoe excursions along the rim of Bryce Canyon.
Photo Courtesy of Bryce Canyon National Park.
1. Stay
Lodging rates in the Bryce Canyon area are a steal in winter. Ruby’s Inn, located in Bryce Canyon City, offers clean, pleasant and dog-friendly hotel rooms with lots of on-site amenities. In nearby Tropic, Bryce Canyon Pines features standard hotel rooms and a three-bedroom family suite with a full kitchen. Or rent a home through Vrbo or AirBnB (like this cute two-bedroom house 12 miles from BCNP in Cannonville at vrbo.com/719925). rubysinn.com, bcpines.com
2. Glide
Ruby’s Inn sets more than 30 kilometers of cross-country skiing track for both classic and skate skiing throughout the Ponderosa Pine-filled forest directly next to the hotel. Admission to the track is free for both hotel guests and those staying elsewhere. Ruby’s Inn also maintains an ice ribbon next to its Winter Activity Center (Ebenezer’s Bar & Grill building). The cost to skate is just $7 and includes ice skate rental.
3. Hike
Thanks to its 8,000-feet-above-sea-level elevation, the contrast of snow-flocked red rock against blue skies is both a sight to behold and common in the winter months at Bryce Canyon National Park. For an up-close view of Bryce’s snow-frosted spires or “hoodoos,” take a walk on the Queen’s Garden/Navajo Combination Loop, a 2.3-mile, moderate trail descending and ascending the canyon between Sunset and Sunrise points. Before you go, check in at the park Visitor Center for the latest trail conditions and info on ranger-led snowshoe hikes.
If you’re looking for more than the ample elbow room offered at Bryce Canyon, head 10 miles southeast to Red Canyon, known as “Little Bryce,” for its red rock hoodoos and pink sand. The Red Canyon Visitor Center is closed in the winter, but current hiking, mountain biking and OHV trail information is posted on a kiosk at the mouth of the canyon. Drive 10 miles farther along Scenic Byway 12 through Tropic to Kodachrome State Park. There are five hiking trails that wind among surreal sandstone spires, called sedimentary pipes.
Pro tip: Dress in layers as temperatures vary widely between the sun and shade in the desert, especially in the winter. Snow-covered trails throughout the park are invariably slick making micro-spikes and hiking poles/walking sticks musts. (Both can be rented at Ruby’s Inn.) nps.gov/brca, stateparks.utah.gov
4. Eat & Drink
Dining in this corner of Utah is limited, especially in the winter. The Cowboy’s Buffet & Steak Room at Ruby’s Inn is open year-round, but there’s often a wait. The region’s only liquor store can be had at Ruby’s Inn as well. Other options include traditional barbecue from the soda fountain IDK Barbecue or hand-tossed pizza, salads, entrees, and beer from The Pizza Place at Bryce Canyon Inn—both in Tropic. Clark’s Country Market, on Main Street in Tropic, offers supermarket-level groceries. Pro tip: I often pre-make chili or curry to heat up in a crock pot in the hotel room while my friends and/or family and I ski or hike during the day. Then we know we’ll have a hot meal at the end of a stellar day spent outdoors. brycecanyonpizza.com, idkbarbecue.com, clarkscountrymarket.com
Photo Courtesy of Adobe Stock.
Winter Festival
Snow play in the high desert takes center stage during Ruby’s Inn’s annual Bryce Canyon Winter Festival (February 17-19, 2024). This family-friendly event includes cross-country ski and ice-skating instruction, wildlife track clinics, watercolor painting, yoga classes and much more—most of which are free. Events are held at Ruby’s Inn and in Bryce Canyon National Park. rubysinn.com
Peering into Dark Skies
Petzl Tikka Headlamp, $34.95, available at rei.com
Though the Bryce Canyon Astronomy Festival is held annually in June, low moisture and long nights make winter an even better time to stargaze at BCNP. It is possible, in fact, to see more than 7,500 stars with the naked eye on a moonless winter night there. Take advantage of regular ranger-led stargazing talks and clinics held as part of one of the oldest national park astronomy programs in the country. Both BCNP and Kodachrome Basin State Park have been named Dark Sky Parks by the International Dark Sky Association.
Pro tip: If you plan to walk around at night, consider bringing along a headlamp with a red light setting, like Petzl’s Tikka, which allows you to see details in the dark without impairing anyone’s night vision. nps.gov/brca
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