The first visual impression Iceland makes on visitors is that of a craggy, volcanic rock draped in a lush mantle of moss-green lichen. The lichen is fragile and posted signs warn tourists to stay on designated paths, lest their stray footfalls damage the century-old heaths. Perhaps this demonstrates the double-edge of the tourism boom to the land of fire and ice. Much of Iceland’s beauty draws crowds because it is wild, singular, ancient and untouched by humans, but the more people visit Iceland, the less likely it is for it to remain so. Tourism has become Iceland’s primary export in the last decade, with more than 2.3 million visitors expected this year. To put that in perspective, there are fewer than 400,000 total residents in Iceland. It’s a small country with limited infrastructure to support large crowds outside of the capital city of Reykjavík. An industry has formed around the increased travel, and, while Iceland is welcoming, that welcome wears thin when visitors are disrespectful.
The author and Sam Sabine at Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon.
An arm of the glacier is visible in the distance. Photo credit Michael Porter.
A Week in Iceland
There were four of us. My brother (the photographer) and I (the writer) and our partners (the producer and the artist). We had a week in Iceland and wanted to see and experience as much as we possibly could. We rented a car and hit the road—the Ring Road, to be specific, a road that travels Iceland’s entire coast. We would need at least another week to circumnavigate the whole island, but one week took us from Reykjavík on the west coast to the Eastfjords on the east coast, with all of the beauty of the Southern region—Vatnajökull (Europe’s biggest glacier), basalt waterfalls and black sand beaches—in between.
Pro Tip: Before you set off, look into renting a wireless hotspot to stay connected on the road. Despite the remoteness of some of the areas we visited, we almost always had internet service.
Krossanesfjall mountain in Southeast Iceland. Photo credit Michael Porter.
No.1 Lava Fields and Hot Pools
The Keflavík International Airport is in a southwestern region of Iceland called the Reykjanes Peninsula, which means many visitors’ first stops are roadside outlooks over endless moss-covered lava fields, geothermal pools and hiking trails in the shadow of a volcano. The Blue Lagoon hot spring is a popular spot for visitors straight from the airport for obvious reasons. Who doesn’t want a hot soak, mimosa and mineral face mask after a nine-hour flight from the States? However, all of that geothermal fun comes at a cost. Recent eruptions and seismic activity in the Reykjanes Peninsula have put some areas on alert and closed popular tourist destinations.
Pro Tip: If Blue Lagoon is closed due to volcanic activity at the time of your visit, continue to Reykjavik for an introductory soak at Sky Lagoon
The famous “Rainbow Street,” painted in celebration of Reykjavík Pride. Photo credit Michael Porter.
No. 2 Reykjavík nightlife
With a 6 a.m. arrival at the airport and a few hours spent at the hot springs, get to Reykjavík just in time to check into the hotel or vacation rental, clean up and head out to enjoy the local sights, dining scene and nightlife. (You could attempt a power nap, but we recommend powering through until bedtime to acclimate to the time zone.) Music fans can time their trip to Reykjavík for Icelandic Airwaves (Nov. 7–9, 2024), an international genre-bending music festival held in venues across the city. Stop by Hallgrimskirkja, a church designed to look like Iceland’s basalt cliff formations and the statue of Viking Leifur Eiríksson. Keep an eye out for Laugavegur, a pedestrian-friendly thoroughfare lined with cafes, shops and bars, and Skólavörðustígur, an easy street to spot given it is painted in Instagram-worthy rainbow color blocks.
No. 3 Chasing waterfalls
The road east from Reykjavík, through the Southern region, will take you past fields of stout Icelandic horses, ancient Viking turf homes and some of the most stunning waterfalls in the world. Urridafoss is one of the largest waterfalls in the world by volume, but it’s typically far less crowded than the two waterfalls down the road. Gljufrabui is a waterfall hidden among “troll caves” a short hike from the towering waterfall Seljalandsfoss. Just down the road, you’ll find the rather impressive Skógafoss. Closer to the glacier Vatnajökull, the hike to the basalt column waterfall, Svartifoss, is well worth it.
Pro tip: Another can’t-miss hike is the trail to Fjaðrárgljúfur Canyon near the village of Kirkjubæjarklaustur. Imagine volcanic rock walls, softened with tufts of grass and moss, collapsing into sheer rock faces to the swirling cerulean water below.
Natural basalt columns frame the waterfall Svartifoss in Vatnajökull National Park. Photo by Michael Porter.
No. 4 Vík sightseeing
You will know you’re in Vík when you spot Vík i Myrdal Church, a nearly 100-year-old white church with a red roof, rising on a hillside above the town. Many come to visit nearby Reynisfjara Beach, a beautiful black sand beach with basalt columns and caverns and a dangerous reputation. The quick, powerful ocean waves will damage camera equipment and knock over inattentive people, sometimes dragging them out to sea. Vík is also home to my favorite Icelandic coffee shop, Skool Beans (skoolbeans.com), which, as the name might suggest, took up residence in a renovated yellow school bus. If he happens to be in, be sure to say “Hi” to the manager, a ginger cat named Jeffrey. The coffee drinks are also very good.
No. 5 Glacial exploration
There are two glacier adventures we recommend booking in Iceland: a kayaking excursion on the glacial lagoon and a glacier hiking expedition. Navigate around icebergs in Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon and meet some curious seal pups, who, according to our guide, are all named Gustav. While we saw some people struggle to maneuver in crampons with ice picks and traverse atop the glacier Vatnajökull, if you’re able, I still recommend it…and sipping straight out of the rivulets (created from the immense pressure from the ice) is about the purest water you’ll ever taste. Unfortunately, the glacier is disappearing. In the last 30 years, Vatnajökull has shrunk by at least 150 square miles due to climate change. Before you go, make sure to get a group photo at Diamond Beach, a black sand beach that earns its name from the sparkling chunks of glacial ice that wash up on shore.
No. 6 Eastfjords
Our final stop is the town of Seyðisfjörður in Eastern Iceland, perhaps most famous for its church, Seyðisfjarðarkirkja. The cobblestone path to the church at the center of town is painted in rainbow colors, and the town alone is worth a visit for its understated charm, abundance of murals and scenic beauty. While in the Eastfjords, end your trip at the unparalleled Vök Baths—remote geothermal pools that border the lake Urriðavatn. Locals will cheer you on as you take the polar plunge by jumping into the chilly lake after a soak in the hot pools.
Aurora Borealis over Hvolsvöllur, Iceland. Photo by Michael Porter.
Northern Lights
The optimal season for viewing the Aurora Borealis in Iceland is September to April, with the Winter Solstice—the coldest and darkest time of year—at its peak. For the best chance to see the Northern Lights, stay outside of more populated areas. For instance, renting a cabin in Hrífunes Nature Park, outside of Vík, is perfect for viewing the Auroras and stargazing. During our visit in late September, we went our entire road trip without a whiff of the Auroras until our final night there. They emerged after midnight above our vacation rental near the village of Hvolsvöllur, about an hour-and-a-half drive from Reykjavík. For the Aurora forecast, visit auroraforecast.is.
What to Eat
Street food and fresh, pre-made convenience store fare in Iceland are a step above what one might expect in the U.S. We became hooked on an Icelandic soda made with fish collagen, Collab (collabiceland.is). The elderflower-lime flavor with caffeine is a personal favorite. Hot dogs are kind of a thing, and many villages will have a hot dog truck or two. Fish soup and lamb stew are both staples, and soup is a satisfying way to warm up and fill your belly after a day outdoors in the wind and rain. Our favorite lunch spot we happened upon by chance at a combination cafe/art gallery in Hvolsvöllur called Eldstó Art Cafe/Restaurant (eldsto.is).
Find more travel inspo down south in our journey to the home of Mezcal, Oaxaca Mexico!
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